An average size Rogue River summer steelhead puts up a good fight in the near 3000 CFS water flow of July. Once again the bite came in the early afternoon after the water had warmed up a bit. The steelhead hit the Yellow Fork Tail Prince near near the end of a nymph and swing tactic.
Boy did I get into them yesterday for the first time this summer. On my solo visit to the Rogue River I went 0 for 3 on the silver, chrome rockets. Took out a few trips earlier this month in the Drifter but could connect with nothing but trout. Yesterday’s visit was nothing but steelhead bites. I hiked one of my better trails to the river. The mosquitos are still bad, but the hot fishing in hot weather made it all good! The hot fly was my Yellow Fork Tailed Prince Nymph. The steelhead love it!
Been watching the high water all month. It may not fish this year. At least I wet a line!
The Prince Nymph. Also know as the Brown Fork Tail. The most prolific steelhead catching fly of the past season. Fished on a dead drift. The weighted Prince. I like a brass bead and wrapped lead wire underneath. A drop or two of Zap-A-Gap will cement it in place. Two brown goose biots are wrapped on as a forked tail with red thread. An oval silver tinsel is attached to the far side to be wrapped as a rib. A length of strong, fine wire is attached to the near side. The thread is advanced to the front of the hook. 15 pieces of natural peacock herl are attached there at their fine tips. The thread is wrapped back to the base of the tail over the herl. At this point the red thread is wrapped around the full length of the peacock herl strands. The herl and the thread are twisted together to form a strong rope. Then the “rope” is wrapped to the front of the hook forming a tapered body. End the peacock herl body behind the brass bead head. Be sure to separate the extra herl from the thread. Clip the herl leaving a little free space behind the bead. Wind the oval silver tinsel forward over the body with 5 or 6 equal spaced wraps to the front. Counter wind the strong wire over the tinsel to the front. Bind down the tinsel and wire with several taunt wraps of the red thread. Trim the excess tinsel and wire ends. Attach a prepared brown feather hackle to the little space left between the body and the bead head. The fibers of the hackle can be folded to help slant rearward. The brown hackle is wrapped once or twice to sweep rearward as a collar. Two white goose biots are attached to the top just behind the bead as wings. To securely attach the wings, I like to fold/bend the cut ends rearward and cover them with the final wraps of thread. Build up a little red space with the tread behind the bead, whip finish and cut the thread. Several coats of cement (Sally Hansens or Zap-A-Gap) are applied to the thread. Notice the folded end of the white goose biot poking out at the base of the wing. A very attached wing that will not slip off.